Re: Stephen Fryer
Posted by:
Stephen Fryer (---.cache.pol.co.uk)
Date: August 21, 2021 01:11AM
Bobo and Jack, thanks.
I've completed the part of the project which calls for a piece which would entice the reader to go somewhere you yourself love. It's prose, and therefore doesn't belong here, but I feel reckless. Crit welcome.
Marais Poitevin
It’s hard to describe the feeling. The brochures and the website do their best, but you can’t photograph a feeling. You don’t know what’s coming, even when you get there. You’ve been told, by others who’ve been there, that you will like it. But until you experience it for yourself, you don’t really believe them. So you go, and you have a coffee before you get into the little boat, and you set off, and it’s nice, and then. Then, you’re in the Marais Poitevin. And you say, oh.
I can tell you where it is, give you directions, describe the place a little. I can say that it’s between Niort and La Rochelle; that the tourist name for it is Green Venice; that these are marshes which since the 12th century – mostly from the 17th - have been extended inland by a system of polders [or prises] and dykes; that the result is a dense maze of small canals bordered by century-old willows, poplars, and pollarded ash. There are boats for hire, with or without a boatman. The place is quiet, relatively undiscovered, and you will find peace there. Your boatman will offer to put a light to the marsh gas coming off the surface of the water: let him do it, and give him a good pourboire afterwards, because well, what harm is there in doing touristy things for a laugh and I bet it’s a memory of the marsh that you will take away and treasure in your idle moments.
I can tell you too that the photographs in the brochures and on the website tell the truth: it isn’t that someone has cleverly picked out the one or two pretty views and pretended that it’s all like that. It is all like that. Those trees really do form a huge arch over your head, as you glide slowly – you can’t go fast, you mustn’t, you shouldn’t, and you definitely won’t want to - you will feel pleasantly enclosed by green tunnels. Oh and the fauna – the birds, fishes, frogs. You will hear them more than see them, and the chorus of the frog choir is something else you will remember. All around the marais, there are small pieces of land, individual plots dedicated to market-gardening or used as pastures for cattle. But the marais itself, it’s just canals surrounded, beside and above, by trees trees trees.
I can tell you about the atmosphere and just how it feels to be in there. Others told me, and that’s why I went, because I was told this by people I know and who know me and know what I like and am like. And I have to say thankyou. I knew that your recommendation would be good, but you didn’t tell me how good. So good, that I am writing this piece now so that I can pass on my good fortune, if I can, and share. But you, reading this, are not people I know or who know me. How do I know you will like it too? Why should I tell you? Why should you believe me?
Because if there’s one thing that you and I and every single person in this frenetic world needs, it is peace. The kind of peace that some find in silence and some in poetry and some, I know, in God. The Marais Poitevin will give you some of that peace: how much will vary from person to person, but there will be some. Let me try to explain.
You are sitting in a small boat and it is going slowly, very slowly, along a canal. There is little or no movement in the water itself. It is quiet now, now that you and your companions have stopped oohing and aahing and saying oh my and how about this and, isn’t it quiet? So, you have your silence. By now, you are totally cut off from the sounds of the world. Listen, instead, to the steady sounds of the little boat pushing through the water; and to the birds. And then, just as slowly, something else happens: your eyes, which had been glancing and peeping and spying and popping at the beauty of it all, start to become accustomed to this new experience: gradually, as the boat penetrates further and further into the green arches, your eyes realise that like your ears there is a kind of silence for them to enjoy: gradually, your breathing slows, almost stops. Cocooned, in a green tunnel of beauty, hardly any sound, hardly any sight. Tell me that isn’t peace. Try it.
I mentioned silence, but I also mentioned poetry. It is something I read all the time, and occasionally write. I would like to be able to tell you that the marais inspired me to write a great poem – but it would not be true. Because I would not want to write a poem about the place, about its beauty, about how it looks, about what Gerard Manley Hopkins called its inscape. Maybe one day I will be able to do that. Maybe if you go, you can write a poem. If you do, send it to me. No, it is what the Marais Poitevin gave to me, which will always stay with me, which will become a permanent part of me, of my inspiration, of my poetry - peace. And, I mentioned God. He is there: this is his green church. Go.
Stephen